To check for a defect, pull the garment fabric taut from both sides of the design. If the wrinkles remain visible and feel like plastic-like ridges within the print, you are looking at warped ink caused by film buckling. Genuine fabric wrinkles will disappear when the shirt is stretched flat or professionally steamed from the inside.
You just unboxed a fresh batch of custom-printed shirts, but something feels off. Instead of a smooth, professional finish, the design looks wavy, distorted, or permanently wrinkled—even when the fabric underneath is pulled tight. This phenomenon, often called the "bacon effect," is a common frustration for apparel brands in 2026. While many blame the shirt material or the washing machine, the root cause usually happens long before the garment reaches your hands.
Your DTF shirt looks wrinkled because the PET transfer film buckled during the shop's curing process. When the film is exposed to uneven heat in a curing oven, it can warp or "wave." Since the wet ink and TPU adhesive powder are sitting on top of that film, they take on the shape of the buckle. Once the ink dries and the adhesive melts into that warped shape, the wrinkled texture is permanently locked into the print. When that transfer is later heat-pressed onto your garment, you aren't just transferring a design; you are transferring warped, wrinkled ink directly onto the fabric.
Direct-to-Film (DTF) printing, which is the foundation for high-quality DTF gang sheets, relies on a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) film carrier. While high-quality 2026-standard films are treated to withstand high temperatures, they are not invincible. PET film has a specific thermal expansion coefficient. If a print shop uses a low-grade, thin film (typically under 75 microns) or subjects a high-quality film to improper curing temperatures, the material physically reacts.
In a curing oven, the film must reach temperatures between 120°C and 150°C (250°F - 300°F) to properly melt the adhesive powder, a step not required for 'peel and stick' custom UV DTF stickers. If the oven has "hot spots" or if the film is not under proper tension, the heat causes the PET to expand unevenly. This creates tiny ridges or valleys—buckling. Because the ink is still in a semi-liquid state during this phase, it settles into these ridges. When the ink finally cures, it hardens into a wrinkled topography that no amount of heavy pressing can flatten out.
It is important to distinguish between a wrinkled shirt and a buckled print. To check your garment, pull the fabric taut from both sides of the design. If the wrinkles in the design remain visible even when the shirt is stretched flat, you are looking at warped ink. This is a manufacturing defect, not a result of poor garment care.
In 2026, many high-volume shops have switched to automated "shaker-dryer" units or integrated a professional UV DTF printer collection into their workflow. While efficient, these machines require precise calibration. If the vacuum suction that holds the film flat is too weak, or if the heating elements are too close to the film, buckling is inevitable. Smaller shops using manual flash dryers or toaster ovens are even more prone to this issue, as they lack the consistent airflow needed to keep the film stable.
Another factor is moisture. If the PET film has absorbed ambient humidity (anything above 50% in the shop), the moisture trapped in the film can turn to steam during curing. This microscopic steam release pushes against the ink layer, causing the film to ripple and the ink to warp. Professional shops now use climate-controlled storage for their film to prevent this exact scenario.
The short answer is: usually not. Once the ink has cured into a warped shape and been pressed into the fibers of the garment, that texture is part of the shirt's DNA. However, there are two professional-grade attempts you can make to minimize the appearance of the wrinkles:
Place the garment back on a heat press at 310°F (155°C). Cover the design with a heavy finishing sheet (like a matte Teflon or silicone-treated paper) and apply high pressure for 15 seconds. This may slightly soften the ink and flatten the highest ridges, but it rarely eliminates the buckling entirely.
Using a high-powered garment steamer, hit the design from the *inside* of the shirt. While the ink is warm and pliable, gently stretch the fabric. This can help the shirt fibers relax, which might make the ink warping less noticeable to the naked eye. Avoid touching the steamer head directly to the print surface, as this can cause the TPU adhesive to re-melt and smudge.
To avoid receiving wrinkled DTF shirts in the future, ask your print provider about their quality control steps. A reputable shop should be checking for film buckling before the transfers are ever applied to the garments. In 2026, many top-tier printers use AI-monitored curing systems that detect film warping in real-time and pause production.
When you receive your order, perform a "light-angle check." Hold the shirt at a 45-degree angle under a bright light. If you see a consistent, orange-peel texture or wavy lines across the design, the film buckled during curing. Document these issues immediately and request a reprint, as this is a clear indication that the shop's process was not optimized for the film type or ink density used.
Understanding the mechanics of DTF print quality allows you to advocate for better products. Don't settle for "bacon" prints when a properly cured transfer should be as smooth and flexible as the fabric it's printed on.
This texture occurs when the PET transfer film buckles during the curing process, often due to uneven heat or using low-grade, thin films. The wet ink settles into the resulting ridges and valleys, permanently hardening into a warped shape. When heat-pressed, this wrinkled topography is transferred directly onto the garment, making the design look distorted.
Read MoreYes, if ambient humidity exceeds 50%, the PET film can absorb moisture that turns into microscopic steam during the curing process. This steam release pushes against the ink layer, causing the film to ripple and the ink to warp into a wrinkled pattern. Professional shops prevent this by using climate-controlled storage for all their films and supplies.
Read MoreOnce the ink has cured into a warped shape and bonded with the fabric, it is usually impossible to flatten completely. You can attempt a 'heavy repress' with a silicone finishing sheet or steam the design from the inside to relax the fibers. While these steps may minimize the appearance of ripples, they rarely eliminate the underlying ink warping.
Read MorePerform a 'light-angle check' by holding the garment at a 45-degree angle under a bright, direct light source. Look for a consistent orange-peel texture or wavy ridges across the surface of the design that don't match the fabric's natural weave. If these patterns are visible, it is a clear sign that the curing process was not properly optimized.
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